Álex de la Iglesia projects in Veneciafrenia the most terrifying face of mass tourism, a phenomenon of which we are participants and of which we lament in equal parts when it is our cities that suffer the effects of mass tourism. In Seville, the Jewish quarter, which includes the neighborhoods of Santa Cruz and San Bartolomé, is nourished by the traveler and awaits the return of the neighbor, who once enjoyed greater exclusivity in terms of strolling and tasting this part of the Sevillian streets.
The orange blossom and the breeze of the alleys permeate the historic center of Seville, which preserves its history, heritage and gastronomic temples while developing new local projects. Walking through Santa Cruz is a privilege and a gift shared by tourists and Sevillians and this compilation is an ode to the balance and virtues of this neighborhood.
Table Of Contents
- Real Alcazar
- Santa Cruz 'Las Columnas' Winery
- Delatribu
- Of cream
- Giralda Bar
- Santa María la Blanca Church
- Álvaro Peregil
- Emblematic streets
- AIRE Ancient Baths
- Las Teresas
- Pura Vida Terraza (Hotel Fontecruz Seises)
- La Azotea
- Green street
- Doña María Terrace
- Plaza doña Elvira
- Luxury hotels in Santa Cruz
- Freiduría Puerta de la Carne
- Hospital de los Venerables
Real Alcazar
The Real Alcázar of Seville adds up to more than 10 centuries of history and reserves for itself some of the most amazing rooms in the city. Throughout the monument there are halls, gardens, courtyards, cisterns and galleries that drink from a great stylistic variety, from Mudejar to Renaissance.
These spaces have served as a film set and in summer it hosts its popular evening concerts.
📍Patio de Banderas, s/n
Santa Cruz ‘Las Columnas’ Winery
Given the congregation that gathers on its terrace day in and day out, one will conclude that The Columns has a great convening power. That’s right, this beer and gastronomic sanctuary has everything to conquer the hearts of those who taste its food: flavor, tradition and a purely Sevillian atmosphere.
📍c/ Rodrigo Caro, 1
Delatribu
The neighborhood of Santa Cruz had almost everything: the sassiness, the winding streets, the esparto grass, the costume jewelry stores and a privileged niche in history. But only one thing was missing in the Jewish quarter: specialty coffee.
Perhaps the tourist does not need to give him too much to be satisfied with taste, he will feel enough amazement for the streets of this neighborhood but, for the neighbor and the curious, Delatribu is a coffee gift post pandemic.
📍Pje Andreu, 3
Of cream
Following in the footsteps of Mateos Gago, leaving classics like Las Teresas or La Columnas to the right, we stumble upon a most picturesque locale. De nata looks as its concept requires: to bring the authentic pastelitos de nata from Lisbon, popularized as pasteles de Belém, to the center of Seville.
Eva and her sister Helena handcraft these little puff pastry and cream delicacies, in front of the customer and with great care.
📍c/ Mateos Gago, 29
Giralda Bar
Just a few meters from the cathedral, in the iconic Mateos Gago was hidden for years an undisputed jewel of Seville. During the first tastings in the false ceilings of the Giralda bar, skylights began to be discovered, skylights that allow the passage of light, and that turned this brewery temple into another heritage icon of the city.
In total, 88 skylights of five different shapes (stars, poly-lobed figures, octagons…) and of various sizes have been recovered, forming a kind of constellation much more elaborate than that of other baths of the same period.
📍c/ Mateos Gago, 1
Santa María la Blanca Church
Where today rises one of the most impressive churches in Seville there was in the 13th century a synagogue. After the pogrom of Seville in 1391 it was converted into a Christian temple and in 1662 it was given the Baroque style appearance it sports today. Of the vestiges of the original synagogue, two Roman shafts crowned with Visigothic capitals are preserved on the side façade.
📍c/ Santa María la Blanca, 5
Álvaro Peregil
A handful of square meters complete this bar that has been standing since 1904. Álvaro Peregil has a testimonial bar that provides tapas and local wines to an abundant clientele. It is necessary to drop by this corner of Mateos Gago to verify that this is an essential stop.
📍 c/ Mateos Gago, 22
Emblematic streets
A few meters away are some of the most iconic streets, not only of the Santa Cruz neighborhood, but of the whole city. Five streets that practically vertebrate a block and the neuralgic heart of the Jewish quarter.
It is necessary to cross the alley of water; cross the street life and return (history through) by Susona, ancient street of death; recover the road traveled to meet the pepper street and discover the Plaza de Doña Elvira before heading the Jewish street towards the Patio de armas.
AIRE Ancient Baths
A thermal circuit through dreamlike spaces and rituals inspired by the thermal baths of ancient civilizations is an unbeatable plan. In the vicinity of the Cathedral is located AIRE, an experience dedicated to the body and mind in the heart of Seville.
📍c/ Aire, 15
Las Teresas
In 1870 this business opened its doors as a grocery store. Later it would become a bodega and by the 1970s it would end up adopting its current appearance: one of the most traditional bars in Seville. Everything they serve on the bar is of the highest quality, from their macho cheeses to their irresistible ham.
📍 c/ Teresa, 2
Pura Vida Terraza (Hotel Fontecruz Seises)
At the top of this luxury hotel is one of the best terraces in Seville. In addition to its gastronomic offer, there are also the different activities that this space hosts throughout the year. The outdoor concerts are one of the flagships and an appointment you can not miss.
📍 c/ Segovia, 6
La Azotea
La Azotea is a hit whenever you go. We condense the essence of this restaurant in: haute cuisine at quite reasonable prices and good products worked with greater care. The coquinas they prepare here will delight anyone without stepping on the beach.
📍 c/ Mateos Gago, 8
Green street
Getting lost in the Jewish quarter is a probable consequence (and necessity) of setting foot on any of its streets. It is likely that you have passed through this pedestrian street, which links Menéndez Pelayo Avenue with Céspedes Street. No great monuments or imposing facades stand out, quite the contrary. Its narrowness, traditional architecture and abundant vegetation give it that well-worn label of being special.
📍Green Street
Doña María Terrace
This iconic hotel was founded in 1969 and enjoys the privilege of coming face to face with the imposing Giralda. For 19 years it is the accommodation itself who manages the terrace, divided into three spaces with capacity to accommodate 50, 60 and 100 people, respectively.
In addition to enjoying incredible views of the Cathedral, the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes or the domes of El Salvador, you have the opportunity to snoop (during the trip to the heights) this palace house that, according to what they say, hides subway passages that connect with the Reales Alcázares.
📍 c/ Don Remondo, 19
Plaza doña Elvira
Orange trees, passers-by, street painters and the murmur of water go hand in hand in Doña Elvira, one of the most representative squares of the neighborhood. Others such as Calle de las Cruces or Santa Marta should not escape the curious. This, not in vain, is our favorite.
📍Doña Elvira Square
Luxury hotels in Santa Cruz
Villapanes Palace
The magic of this 18th-century palace is no secret. In fact, the interior of this monument framed in the Barrio de Santa Cruz is a corner worth visiting, one of the greatest manifestations of civil Baroque architecture in Seville. Inside is this luxury hotel, a haven of peace where taste prevails in every detail.
📍c/ Santiago, 31
Houses of the Jewish Quarter
The hotel has 134 rooms and all of them have luxurious period furniture, hydro-massage showers and spa. Not to mention the historical artifacts you can see throughout the maze of houses, such as amphorae, ancient walls, statues and fountains in Arabic style.
📍c/ Santa María la Blanca, 5
Suites Murillo Plaza Alfaro
It was on this inspiring balcony that Rossini set one of the most iconic scenes of The Barber of Seville. Specifically, it is said that it was this window that Figaro advised the Count of Almaviva to climb to recover his beloved Rosina. Suites Murillo took over the property and reconverted it into 8 accommodating apartments with all the necessities. Rooms that shake the Sevillian hotel scene with juicy proposals. Like delighting in a private jacuzzi from which to let yourself be carried away by the sky of Seville, dotted by the trees of the vines of the Murillo gardens.
📍Plaza de Alfaro, 4
Freiduría Puerta de la Carne
We do not know the secret that hides the frying in the Puerta de la Carne but, undoubtedly, here is prepared one of the best fried fish in Seville . The quality-price ratio is better than good and you have the possibility of tasting them on the premises or take them home in cartridge format. By the way, do not leave without ordering adobo, it is also one of the most exquisite in the city.
📍c/ Puerta de la carne, 2
Hospital de los Venerables
Bien de Interés Cultural, Historical Heritage of Spain and an important baroque building of the seventeenth century. The Hospital de los Venerables, located in the Santa Cruz district, is a key building to understand the history of Seville and to approach the figure of Diego Velázquez.
📍Plaza de los Venerables, 8