The table, a revealing social identifier, has mutated over the centuries and, if once the opulent banquets designated class and not so long ago caviar or lobster were reserved exclusively for a few, ours is a time that exalts the eating houses, honest spaces that recover the tradition as La Tizná.
Mª Ángeles Muñoz Hornillo and José Antonio Barragán sustain La Tizná based on training, a long trajectory in the sector and all the affection that can fit in a kitchen.
Commitment and flavor
The appearance of the restaurant (and the little shop, pantry, food house or breakfast), its clientele, the service and the gastronomic proposal present, as a whole, great singularities.
A handful of tables inhabit this secluded room full of wines, fruits, cheeses, cured meats and other products that the customer can also purchase. It looks like a farm in the middle of the countryside, local and close between tiles and loaves of bread.
It is Thursday and the parishioners of this house come waiting for a space but La Tizná is very lively and some diners prefer to wait and even eat on the terrace with the promise of incipient rain. This is the first clue as to what is being cooked here.
Simple in appearance and, nevertheless, it is a very serious thing that they carry out in La Tizná. The challenge of covid only boosted this project, which moved in 2021 to number 1 Camilo José Cela Street.
The food at La Tizná
The first surprise that overwhelms and excites in equal parts is that the table welcomes you with a loaf of bread, not exactly to show off palmito. Oil, tomato and the sauces and soups that are yet to come will sprinkle this delicacy in charge of Domi Vélez.
The menu flees from the straitjacket and embraces the classics, betting on the vegetables and legumes that define this land. It is organized in three large sections: tapas; from the field to the table and today I am going to eat well, its flag.
With this maxim is announced an experience that although it drinks from the terroir, it is out of the conventional in Seville and proposes unforgettable bites.
Such as the cod maripuri, their very tasty version of the Indian pani puri, infinitely less greasy. In this case, it is filled with cod brandade and presented on a bed of fig compote and topped with a hollandaise with tarragon and mustard. A tapa that justifies a visit.
Another of its portents is the ensaladilla de la Dolores, which evokes the mother with mastery.
It is made at the moment -also the mayonnaise- and it is studied to the millimeter to compile the precise amounts of potato, peas, carrot or mackerel. It is majestic, as we said, it is served in a measuring jug and has already become one of our favorites in the city.
The menu is lavished to the Mediterranean and Andalusia, to its vegetable garden and tradition. Another of the emblems of their menu is the organic avocado from Coín with piricaña gaditana, pickled cabbage and radishes, organic arugula from Huelva and kafir lime vinaigrette. It anticipates, refreshing, any of its more forceful dishes.
Consecrate yourself to seasonal vegetables, the stew of the day or some icons of the house -the Andalusian chicken and organic broken eggs are on the kitchen bill- as if time stretched indefinitely.
This is what it feels like to eat at La Tizná, a long after-dinner meal of customs (spoon and step back, dipping soups, drinking wine) and profuse flavors.
Sustainability, for real
The CAAE seal certifies that at La Tizná they can more than afford to wield a sustainable discourse from end to end. Because this is ratified by their continuous working days (which promote rest and family reconciliation) or the fresh and organic food that flood their plates, pantry and showcase.
Eggs and vegetables from El Viso, potatoes from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, avocados from Coín, oil from Saucejo,…. The origin is a taste and a respite, ingredients of proximity that build an Andalusian recipe book with the avant-garde look of this team. Interested in knowing the research and origin of their products can also do it in this guide with their suppliers.
Non-stop cuisine, from breakfast to closing time.
The dedication with which José Antonio arranges, serves and narrates each wine is remarkable. From the stories that go through the cellars, the production of special bottles or the possibility of taking a reference directly from the vines to the glass.
The dessert chapter lends itself, like the entire menu, to celiac and lactose intolerant people. Almost a dozen proposals that will win a good number of devotees.
It has a Solete, yes, although La Tizná plays in another league.
The one that puts organic, healthy, delicious cuisine at the center of the equation, from breakfast until closing time (20:00 hours). The one that vindicates Andalusian cuisine in every sense of the word, that longing for the flavors of childhood that do not renounce excellence.
La Tizná fulfills, as Pardo Bazán said, “the three excellences of good food: that it be clean, abundant and tasty”.
Ceremonial, close, finger-licking good. A destination where we definitely come to eat well.