The urban exodus is summoned in the light of the toasted landscapes and the dusting off of its appetizing seasonal recipe book. It is not so easy to find, when cloned restaurants prevail, proposals devoted to the stew, to the good work of the kitchen, raising the products available in the market. Cal Viva is one of those claims that urges to visit: rural gastronomy, Andalusian terroir and an admirable wine cellar.
The chef and sommelier Leo Ramos is in charge of this project that puts Morón de la Frontera on the map more than ever. He is accompanied in this adventure by Julio Domínguez, also sommelier and responsible for the harmonies and Teresa Gómez, captaining the fires.
Cal Viva is a homey character of diaphanous aspect, the province printed on the ceramics, with a seductive wine cellar that invites, in front of the kitchen, to start with a glass of fino.
It does not detract from its secluded lounge, framed among vases and photographs around the quarries, which offer a more intimate experience.
It is appreciated that the menu is moderately priced. Cal Viva approaches the diner to feed him with the roots of our recipe book under the visual precepts of haute cuisine.
A 7-course menu to celebrate its anniversary
On the occasion of its anniversary -Cal Viva turns, in fact, 7 years old- they have devised a tasting menu, available until Thursday, October 30, which gathers some of the flavors that have defined its journey.
Seven passes and their proverbial pairing that “represents our love for the territory,” says Leo Ramos.
The first sketches of the menu materialize in the tandem gilda-sardine. On the one hand, the banderilla consists of a gordal with anchovy and piparra stuffed with a seaweed aioli. On the other, they serve a soasada sardine pickled with radishes on a kind of salted torrija. It is accompanied by a glass of Perotonar Solera 2007.
It is followed by one of Cal Viva’s classics: their peculiar tomato with blue fish (in this case, red mullet), whose dressing is reserved -they insist on it being so simple-, and which proves to be totally addictive. It is necessary to use bread for the first time in this house. Paired with Solear manzanilla 2012.
One of the favorites of me is presented next. Without artifice, the chipirón encebollao stuffed with black pudding overflows nobility, simplicity and depth of flavor. A spectacle that on the menu is washed down with Freixenet Malvasía 2014.
Tradition and ‘guisoteo’: a love letter to the Sevillian countryside.
The Sevillian countryside is evident throughout the menu, which continues with a grilled vegetable ratatouille with egg yolk and Iberian veil.
Leo Ramos invokes the stew, whether autumn temperatures apply or not. Of course, there are two spoon dishes: a sensational red tuna tarantelo with beans and braised cheeks with oloroso and beans.
They bet on Frontonio’s Microcópico, Valdejalón garnacha for the beans and Lezcano-Lacalle 2015 for the cheeks.
The dessert is a very fine closure, some porridge a la brûlée. Or what is the same: a caramelized poleá . The journey culminates with a PX Gran Barquero.
The tasting, based on memory and traditional recipes, is a love letter to this land. The menu is priced at 58 € and can be tasted until next Thursday. An excuse to escape to Morón before the hustle and bustle of the weekend.
In any case, Cal Viva presents a new menu and updates its omakase menus to let yourself go and enjoy the workmanship of this house.
Leo Ramos’s career and the good work of the team validate any recognition. It is not surprising, then, that the Michelin, Repsol and Macarfi guides confirm its worth. It is peremptory that they visit it.