Almost a quarter of a century. That is the time that Tribeca treasures , solid exponent of the gastronomy in Seville, serving good culinary work and marking the neighborhood of La Buhaira as one of the Seville destinations to which to surrender if one claims sea and finesse.
Far from the weightlessness of businesses that open and close, of the times that urge constant change, in this house shine the office, the kitchen and tenacity.
It is enough to look back and see that one of the first culinary sensations of Seville survives with fury.
We were saying Tribeca, where they put together a discourse based on the nakedness of the product and the virtue of a well-executed technique.
This is augured by the appearance and layout of the restaurant itself. Three interconnected spaces, endowed with magnificent lighting and a distinguished air. Behind the lattices and the thread tablecloths, however, Tribeca emerges as natural, close and lively as its cuisine.
Pedro Giménez embodies the chef by standard, with the presence and vigor of someone who lives with commitment to gastronomy, product and service.
He prowls the dining room, attends to the diner and directs with firmness and care the tasks that take place in that semi-open kitchen, a sort of visual appetizer of what is literally cooking under our feet.
Eating the sea
Tribeca’s is a seasonal cuisine with the sea at the center of the equation. They champion the quality of the product with the meritorious chair that is having their own fishmonger, Astaroth in Rota.
Fish and seafood from the Gulf of Cádiz support the weight of a menu and tasting menu that moves with the seasonality.
A smoked and marinated salmon with feta cheese, fennel-infused apple and currants; a gilda of octopus, piparra and romescu and a crispy cod skin with cod brandade, black olives and oranges start off appetizing.
The ceremony opens with bouillabaisse, one of the quintessential Mediterranean soups that, in this case, not only provides comfort but also delicately integrates each ingredient in isolation, with a wealth of nuances and memories.
There is room to keep the classics, however. Like the carabinero tartar, which will awaken devotion in both novice and avid palates.
Winter subtlety
Spectacular grilled scallop with hollandaise, truffle and mint, an outstanding bite that modulates in the mouth and becomes scarce. The taste asks for more.
Subtlety reaches its zenith in the battered grouper with ginger and kumquats. Where there are no distracting elements, no unnecessary frills. At Tribeca, nothing is masked because Tribeca is a cuisine without shortcuts.
Far from thinking of sterile dishes, even beyond their specialty, fish, they strive for sapidity, technique and audacity.
Or else, how is it possible to perpetrate a grilled foie gras next to a very fine omelette sheathed in a veil of boletus and pine nuts vinaigrette. Juices and textures remain a powerful weapon of seduction in the last of the dishes.
A display of grace also in the desserts. Refreshing vodka and mandarin sorbet to anticipate the pear in syrup, cheese flan, licorice tuile and lavender streussel.
And a creamy winter truffle, hazelnut rock and stout ice cream. Soft in the bite, capable of taking the juice out of the season and elevating winter. Tribeca endures while maintaining the essence and permeating into contemporaneity taking the lead in the haute cuisine category.
Little more to add. If the first of the spaces of the Tribeca Group is sustained with vigor and other great culinary firms in Seville have emerged from it, it only remains to thank the trio Pedro Giménez, Eduardo and Jaime Guardiola for the possibilities they have lent to the city.
Photographs: Germán Domínguez / Estudio 2017