Crowning the Middle Valley of the Guadalquivir, the castle of Almodovar del Rio is one of the best preserved medieval castles in Europe, an imposing jewel that you have less than 2 hours from Seville. Its appearance, however, has not remained untouched in its thirteen centuries of history.
There are many neighboring towns from where you can see this fortress, strategically built on a hill at 252 meters. Next to the Guadalquivir River, close to Sierra Morena and halfway between Cordoba and Seville.
Almodóvar del Río – formerly Almudawar Al-Adna, back in the 9th century – and its castle were linked to the Caliphate of Córdoba, belonged to the Taifa of Carmona, also to that of Seville and to the Almohad Empire until it was handed over to Fernando III “El Santo” in the early years of the 13th century.
In the times that followed, it went from being a royal residence to form part of the Order of Calatrava, first, to that of Santiago, later, undergoing various extensions.
It was not until 1629 that Francisco de Corral y Guzmán, Count of Torralba, took possession of this property , which had fallen into disrepair over the centuries.
The Castle of Almodóvar recovers its splendor.
A lot would have to happen to get the luster that this Cordovan fortress shows today. You have to travel to the end of the 19th century. Rafael Desmaissières y Farina, who at the age of 29 inherited the County of Torralva, was determined to restore the castle.
For this purpose he worked with the architect Adolfo Fernández Casanova, responsible for the restoration of the Cathedral of Seville and who would also devote himself to the ambitious project of beautifying and embellishing this Andalusian property. The works would last from 1901 until the outbreak of the Civil War.
Nearly 800 workers worked for 36 years to create an access road and restore the walls, battlements and towers that today receive thousands of annual visitors.
Visits and activities at the castle
Fernando de Solís-Beaumont, the great-great-grandson of the XII Count of Torralva, is the owner of this building, which opened its doors to the public in 2001 .
The rest, as you can imagine, is a succession of curious visitors, attracted by this walled enclosure that you can tour in its entirety (except for the Neo-Gothic Palace). Its towers, outbuildings, courtyards, the viewpoint, the Garden of the Moat or its Plaza de Armas.
How much does it cost to visit the Almodovar Castle?
In addition, guided, dramatized and school visits are offered to this space as well as cultural activities that are dotted throughout the annual calendar. Thus the medieval days, which are held in March, April and October; combat training; its medieval lunch, its fun agape or the night of the Black Moon. You have all the details and dates on the castle’s website.
As for prices to access it, the general rate is 10 € (8.5 € reduced admission, 6 € children up to 13 years).
Film and series locations
The beauty of the monument, especially with regard to its frame, does not escape anyone; neither to film producers and those related to the small screen. And is that Almodovar Castle, whose success reached its zenith when it became Altojardín (Game of Thrones), has served as a location for several films and series.
Yes, Olenna Tyrell and Jamie Lannister managed to popularize this destination about a decade ago, but other charismatic characters were already here.
Juanito Valderrama strolled around the castle in The King of the Road (1956) and Ava Gardner and Omar Sharif did the same during the filming of Harem (1986). Also the nineties series Al Ándalus, el camino del sol or the film Entrelobos ( 2010) saw in this castle a formidable setting.
Restaurants in Almodóvar and surroundings
With respect to food, Almodóvar del Río is fortunate to have a restaurant distinguished with the Bib Gourmad of the Michelin Guide. La Taberna de Cuatro Caminos offers a simple and slightly updated cuisine capable of bringing fresh air to the gastronomic proposal of the region.
Its famous croquettes, an original recipe by chef Ricardo Arribas, or its mazamorra stand out. Of course, there is no lack of salmorejo cordobés; the revuelto del cortijo, another of the classics of this house; or the churrasco “La Taberna” of Iberian sirloin steak Valle de los Pedroches (Sierra Norte Córdoba).
Other good restaurants are Peña Flamenca La Soléa, Mesón La Bodeguita or La taskita del sibarita, all of them in Palma del Río.