Bakeries and cafés with display cases full of pastries are a common sight in any town; it is the good fortune of only a few to have historic bakeries whose tradition dates back several generations—and even more than a century. In Seville, we have La Campana, and in the province and its surrounding areas, highlights include the Convent of Santa Clara in Carmona and the English cakes that its Poor Clares have been making since the late 19th century; Rufino in Aracena; and La Centenaria in Alcalá de Guadaíra.
If you grew up in Acalá, you probably remember the fountain, the tiles, and the counter at La Centenaria; but if you’re just getting to know this sweet institution, we warn you—you’ve got some catching up to do.
In 1976, Manuel Cabreja Vilches, Isabel Montero, and Manolita took over this confectionery, which had been open since 1860. Fifty years later, the Cabreja Montero family is celebrating with the slogan “50 years safeguarding a legacy.”
A 50th anniversary commemorating the half-century that the same family has been at the helm of this historic establishment, which was already a part of Alcalá long before their arrival. In total, 166 years of crafting traditional sweets.
From the bakery to three generations
The early years were marked by long hours and the family’s total dedication. Manuel Cabreja brought the craft he had learned over the years right there in the confectionery shop. By his side, Isabel Montero and Manolita kept the business going. Later, their children—Jesús, José Antonio, and Isabel Cabreja—joined the business, and today a new generation also maintains the family connection to the shop.
Over the years, recipes, baking techniques, and a way of treating customers have been passed down—all of which explain much of the shop’s deep-rooted popularity. Many residents of Alcalá first visited as children with their parents or grandparents and have since returned with their own children.
La Centenaria’s fame predates TikTok trends. On July 11, 1985, journalist and theater director Cayetano Luca de Tena published a feature on La Centenaria in Madrid’s ABC newspaper. He focused on the “tocino de cielo” and concluded his review with a phrase the family still remembers: “We give La Centenaria a ten.”
This little treat is one of the shop’s historic specialties. Isabel Montero, known as Isabelita, also recounts that the House of Alba frequently came by for their “tocino de cielo.”
Many years would pass between the time La Centenaria first opened its doors in 1860 and the time its tortas began to be sold at El Corte Inglés’s El Club del Gourmet. They are now sold at numerous retail locations throughout Spain.
The confectionery co-founded the Alcalá Tortas Producers Association and has been involved from the very beginning in the preservation and promotion of this sweet treat. You can find more information at tortasdealcala.com.
Recognition and Memory
The Seville Chamber of Commerce recently recognized La Centenaria as an Emblematic Business of the Province of Seville.
The distinction recognizes establishments that are notable for their longevity, history, deep-rooted presence in the community, and contribution to the commercial and cultural heritage of their municipalities.
At the event, Isabel Cabreja Montero spoke on behalf of the award-winning businesses and defended their role in the life of small towns and the importance of passing them down from generation to generation.
To mark the anniversary, the family has also launched an audiovisual project. Isabel Montero, her children, grandchildren, and people close to the family share memories and anecdotes: the early days, the challenges, the work in the bakery, the longtime customers, the inherited recipes, and those who are no longer with us. The goal is to tell the family’s story and, at the same time, to preserve a part of Alcalá de Guadaíra’s collective memory.
